The Outer Hebrides
Why did we choose the Outer Hebrides?
Karen and I moved to Inverurie, just north of
The Outer Hebrides, or Gaels as they are known locally are not the western most point of Scotland, but they are still a 6 hour ferry ride from Oban, which is the main staging points for trips to the both the Inner and Outer Hebrides. A number of further ferry hops and causeways link the more southern of the Outer Hebrides islands, Barra and Vatersay via South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist to Harris and Lewis. Another attractive thing about the Outer Hebrides is that it is possible to wild camp, as long as you are sensible, don't cause a nuisance and take your litter with you.
Where to Start from and Getting There.
From Inverurie we could drive, go by bus or by train and could go from various places on the Scottish West Coast. We felt that it would be nice to go south from Harris down to Barra, the southern most of the Main Outer Hebrides, but we read that the prevailing winds were predominantly from the south to south west. So we changed our plan and decided to head North from Barra instead, finishing on the northern most of the Outer Hebrides islands, Harris and Lewis. Of course that year the winds decided otherwise and we ended up cycling into a strong head wind all the way up Uist.
The best travel method proved to be by rail. We bought the Scot Rail Rover ticket, which provides for 8 days travelling out of 15 days by bus, Ferry or rail. So this option worked out the most convenient and cheapest. (unfortunately, these tickets are only valid for travel within Scotland, so if you are coming from outside the country you will have
Our route would take us by train from Inverurie (only two minutes from home) to Oban on the west coast via
| Day 1: Trains and Bikes |
|
Taking a bicycle on the train is an adventure
in itself. You are immediately the centre of attention with folk asking
“Where
you are going?” “How long will it take?” and on and on.
The highlight of the train
journey is the |
| Day 2: Oban to Barra and on to Vatersay |
|
Following
a hearty breakfast, we packed and
headed down to the ferry terminal to catch the lunch time ferry, but
before that
we sought out a camping shop. The fight with the midges the night
before
necessitated buying some repellent. While we were there, we found a
great
little table that was not too heavy and would come in useful for our
tent. |
| Day 3: Vatersay to Ludag, South Uist |
The next morning was fine. We packed up and set off back towards Castlebay. Not far along and we stopped to view the remains of an RAF Catalina sea plane that crashed on the island in 1944. There were nine crew. Amazingly six of them survived.  We continued along the single track road towards the airfield on the north of the island where we had a coffee and watched as the British Airways flight from Glasgow to the Outer Hebrides landed on the sand, taxied up to the terminal and the passengers walked across the sand. Fascinating! After a bit of a laze in the sand dunes in the afternoon sunshine, we got back on our bicycles and scooted down to catch the afternoon ferry to Eriskay. Time for another coffee and to admire the lovely bronze of two otters chasing a sea trout.  Once we had crossed the Sound of Berra, we were back on the bikes and soon over the causeway that joins Eriskay to South Uist. We turned right off the ferry and followed the road until we found a nice little spot to camp on the Machair. Once we had pitched our tent and had something to eat we walked back up the road to the nearest habitation to replenish our water supply. We spotted a guy watering his garden and scrounged some water from him. He asked us if we had eaten and for a minute we though he was going to ask us in for dinner. He offered us some flounders that he had caught the day before. We accepted them with thanks and the following day ate them for our lunch, sitting on the beach. This would not be the first time we would be astounded by the generosity of the Outer Hebrides inhabitants |
| Day 4: Ludag to Howmore |
| After
lunch we set off in a strong wind, heading west along the southern tip
of South Uist which at 44 miles from North to South is the longest
island in the Outer Hebrides. With a reasonably flat road it
should not normally be a problem, particularly with the usual south
westerly winds.. NOT! We had a head wind all the way as we battled up the A865. When we finally arrived at the Howmore Youth Hostel, run by the Gatliff Trust, it was blowing a gale. As the camp site was pretty full, all of the best places in the shelter were taken, so we decided to get a bed in the hostel for the night. Basic, but warm and out of the wind. We cooked our dinner in the warmth of the kitchen and joined the rest of residents around the blazing fire as the Outer Hebrides wind howled outside. |
| Day 5: Howmore to Shell Bay, Benbecula |
 After a leisurely breakfast and a late start we were in for a short ride to the next of the Outer Hebrides islands, Benbecula. We headed up the A865 and half way to our destination struck off to the left at Lochdar towards to take a rest on the sand dunes.  We passed by a number of typical Hebridean "black houses".These are the traditional houses of the Outer Hebrides with low, thick walls and thatched roofs secured by nets weighted with stones all around, designed to keep out the weather. Then it was straight up the road, turn left just across the causeway to arrive at the Shell Bay camping and caravan site. The wind was still blowing, but nowhere near as blustery as the night before. We pitched the tent around the back of the toilet block to get some shelter. The camp site is clean with good toilets, but otherwise unremarkable. For our dinner we walked back along the road to the Dark Island Hotel for a beer or three and a dinner cooked by someone else. Good food, modern low rise hotel with a reasonable atmosphere, but not traditional. |
| Day 6: Shell Bay to Solas, North Uist. |
| The
next day we followed the minor coast B892 road around the west side of
Benbecula, past the airport and across the causeway towards
the next of our Outer Hebrides Islands, North
Uist. We then headed around the North Uist, west
coast
road. On the way we came across the Hebridean
Smokehouse.
We just had to stop and sample their mouth-watering cuisine.
The smokehouse produces, as the name suggests, various smoked
products such as trout, salmon, etc. Needless to say we
bought
some and subscribed to their email list. Since coming home we
have purchased more over the internet. Scrummy! After we had taken our fill, we continued on our way, heading around the north corner of the Island arriving at Solas late afternoon. We saw a sign to a B&B off the main road at Solas. Arriving and knocking to enquire we were immediately put off the place as the landlady was very rude and the place stank of smoke. Apparently not all of the Outer Hebrides residents were as friendly as our first encounters.  So gladly, we carried on to the sand dunes and
pitched our
tent.
The bay at Solas is a lovely flat stretch of sand.
There
was also a youth team there, who later did some sand yachting.
Very impressive to watch. After dinner and a walk
on the
dunes we retired to bed. During the night, the wind got up and was
probably the strongest wind that we had experienced during the week.
We thought we were going to be blown away and understandably,
we
didn't get much sleep. I have to say here that our Lightwave Ultra G2 tent stood up
to the gale very well and by the morning as the wind subsided we were
still in one piece. |
| Day 7 and 8: Solas to Bays Loch, Berneray. |
|
|
When we arrived there was a
team of three men who were re-thatching the roof. They were
living in
a caravan and would be there for the whole of the summer to complete
the job. 
| Day 9 and 10: Berneray to Horgabost, Harris |
 The next day we cycled back to the ferry terminal and caught the mid morning ferry to Outer Hebrides island number three - Harris. We saw numerous seals basking in the warm sunshine on the islets in between the islands. We eventually arrived in Leverburgh and circled around the small loch just as it started to rain. Fortunately we arrived at the tourist office and cafe where we could shelter and sample the local cakes and or course, some tea. After the rain had subsided we started off again following the main A859 around the western side of the Island.  We marvelled at the lovely bay formed out of the ismuth that joined the main island to the headland which as Toe head, basically an island of one small mountain at about 1200m high.  We continued along the coast
road
skirting
the sea and then started to rise towards Horgabost passing by the golf
course and eventually came to the stunning bay that looks across
towards the island of Taransay, where the BBC had run its first
Castaway series and where Ben Fogel had started his media career.
We had earlier met up with our old friend Tom from Barra and together we pitched our tents on the top of the sand dunes. That night was just magical as the sun set over Taransay. We cooked our dinner and ate as we sat watching the sun set in the west. The bay was so quiet and scenery so beautiful that we decided to stay for another night. 
The next day we climbed the long hill towards the East climbing forever, up passed the mountains that form the northern most part of South Harris, and then the hair-raising descent to the port of Harris to do some shopping and have a look around. Here we spotted the most wonderful general hardware store that looked like it must have done 40 or 50 years ago at least. Visiting the Outer Hebrides really is like going back in time!  After a short snack we headed back up the hill and headed down the east side of South Harris. This side of the island was very different to the West side. More rugged with stoney coves and beaches. Scattered housing along the way and a single track road with hardly any traffic. We took our time enjoying the views and the ups and downs of the deserted road. We eventually neared the southern part of Harris and saw the sign to Rodel Hotel. We had read about this place. It sounded enchanting. We just had to take a look. By this time we were ready for a beer and something to eat. The location of Rodel Hotel is lovely. Down the hill and right next to the Harbour at Rodel. The menu was created by the devil himself to tempt weakened cyclists. We succumbed to their gloriously cooked local seafood. Even worse we discovered Berserker! This amber nectar was created by the Hebridean Brewing Company an Export Pale Ale at 7.5%ABV, to add that final nail in the coffin that totally destroys a cyclists legs. We fed and drank our fill and relaxed for a while to gain some recovery before we climbed back up the hill. With legs like jelly we lost rack of the time it took us to get to the top and start our rather meandering ride back to the campsite some 15 miles away. We can't quite remember how we actually got back but got back we did. Our dreams were deep and sweet that night. Outer Hebrides, Australia, Mars - we could have been anywhere. We didn't really care very much. |
From here on unfortunately we have no photo's due to a technical malfunction.
| Day 11: Harris to Uig, Isle of Skye. |
|
As
good
fortune would have it we could lie in a while the next day as we didn't
have to catch the ferry from the Outer Hebrides
to Skye until 14-00 hrs. The
night before had taken its toll. However, after a good breakfast we set
off up the hill for the second time in as many days arriving at Tarbert
in time for a light bite at a local cafe whilst we waited for the ferry
(Do we really seem to be eating all the time?). Half way
through
tea and scones, a young, handsome and dreadlocked, tanned guy
entered with his equally attractive, blond and tanned girlfriend.
The eyeballed us and headed straight over. "Hey man, are
those
your Thorn's outside?". We didn't get their names, but it
turned
out that he was a freelance journalist doing some work for Cycling
Magazine, touring the Outer Hebrides, the opposite way that we had
come.
They had trialed our bikes a few weeks before on behalf of
the
Magazine so they were really interested in what we thought of them.
How could we resist! Two hours later, we had to make
mad
dash for the ferry and only just made it.
The Outer Hebrides gradually faded into the distance and fter a ferry ride of about 1 hour 40, we arrived in Uig on the Isle of Sky. We had pre-booked a B&B. We rolled off the ferry and there it was right in front of us. We had a load of washing to do and the landlady was good enough to let us use their machine. After an afternoon of washing, bike servicing and generally lazing about, we took a walk around the bay to a pub some 30 minutes walk away. Afterwards as we headed back to our acommodation it started to rain. The heavens opened. We had no waterproofs with us and by the time we got back we were soaked to the skin. Still we dried quickly. |
| Day 12 and 13: Uig to Carbost, Loch Harpot - Whisky time! |
| Next
day started with the full Scottish. Not the best thing for
starting the day on a bicycle, but hey we could take it. We
started the ascent out of Uig along the busy (at least by Harris
standards) A87 main road. We arrived at Carbost, but not the
one
we were destined for. This was just a small village along the
way
and it marked the point when we cut off the main road and headed across
the moorland towards Bracadale on the Western side of the
Island.
From Bracadale we skirted down one side of the Loch Harport to the
crossing point at the head of the Loch and then along the other side to
Carbost. Here we had pre-booked a couple of nights at The
Old Inn and BunkHouse. Why here? Well it is the home of Talisker
of course! We had developed a taste for Talisker several
years
earlier, when we had spent a week caravanning in Oben and it rained
none stop. Needless to say we spent a lot of time in the camp
site bar that had a very good top shelf and an expert to tutor us in
the art of whiskey tasting. Talisker developed into a firm
favourite and the opportunity to visit the distillery was too good to
miss. The Old Inn and Bunkhouse also turned out to be an excellent find. The Inn itself is right by the Loch and you can sit looking across theLoch as you sample their fine ales. The acommodation is in a new build bunk house next door, which is very well equipped and laid out. It is also used by groups of people walking the challenging Cuillin Ridge. The Cuillin Ridge is on a par with some of the best routes in the Alps and makes a great trek and climb in Summer or Winter. There are numerous guides on The Ridge. Needle Sports Guide is a useful source of information. Whilst we were there another group had been trying to get up the ridge for the previous three days without success due to low cloud and rain. The following day we ditched the equipment at the Bunkhouse and cycled through Glenbrittle forest to the Camp site at Glenbrittle Bay just for a look see. It was great to be cycling without weight again. Glenbrittle is were most of the Ridge climbers start from, finishing at the Sligachan Hotel on the opposite side of the Island, but there are detours to other munros along the way. That evening, back at the Inn we were entertained by the guy who runs the place who played his fiddle for about an hour or so, with no other accompaniment. Amazing! |
| Day 14: Carbost to Slagachan |
| The
next day was a very short ride to the Bunk House at Slagachan.
We
were there early enough to leave our gear and take the bus ride into
Portree, Skye's capital. Portree is a lovely little sea side
place and we spent the rest of the day looking around. We
walked
around the bay to the famous Cuillins
Hotel and
sat drinking an ice cool beer as we took in the breath taking panorama
which encompasses the isle of Raasay across the water and the
spectacular view back towards Portree Harbour. Later we sauntered back into Portree and down to the Harbour. We spotted a poster for a concert of contemporary and traditional Gaelic music at the Aros Centre. The Aros Centre is just south of Portree and is an exciting arts and culture venue. But first we had time to have dinner (food again). We found a lovely little mediterranean style restaurant on the way back up from the harbour and had a relaxed meal overlooking Portree Harbour. We then took a taxi to the Aros Centre in time for the concert. The artist was Rachel Walker. It was a pleasant introduction to this type of music for us After the concert we spotted some people the group of walkers that we had met at the Bunkhouse in Carbost and they were kind enough to give us a lift back to Slagachan. |
| Day 15: Slagachan to Kyle of Lochalsh |
| This
was our last day of cycling before returning home and it was probably
the least enjoyable of the whole two weeks. The ride was along the A87
main road which carries all of the car and lorry traffic across Skye to
the ferry ports and on to the Outer Hebrides. The first part wasn't too
bad but the closer we got to Broadford bay and beyond the area had
little to endear it and we were glad to eventually find our way over
the quite spectacular bridge from Skye to the mainland. We
had
decided to camp overnight. The site was a long climb out of
Kyle
of Lochalsh which was annoying as we would have to come back again to
catch the train home the following day. The next day we packed up our gear and headed back into the town, collecting a few gifts for our friends who had looked after our dog whilst we had been way. The train journey from Kyle of Lochalsh through Glen Carron and The Strath Bran to Inverness was some of the best scenery that we had seen. We had a brief stop in Inverness for the next train to Inverurie and eventually arrived home in the early evening. Our tour of the Outer Hebrides had been a wonderful two weeks, which we would highly recommend, but be ready for all types of weather! |
