Traversing the Pyrenees by Mountain Bike

from the Mediterannean to the Atlantic

The Reccy

The sheer magnitude of the Pyrenees mountain range drew us. We had read about the magnificent gorges and prehistoric woodlands found there and we just had to see it for ourselves. The task we were setting ourselves was daunting and so before we took up the challenge of Bicycling the Pyrenees, Karen and I went for a short holiday there in September 2004 to reconnoitre. This was very worthwhile as it gave us a good overview of what the ride was going to be like. This was going to be a significantly more demanding ride than the English coast to coast that we had completed a couple of years earlier, both in terms of fitness and logistics.

The Pyrenees mountain rage stretches some 430km from the Meditteranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. They straddle the France / Spain border. The highest point in the Pyrenees is Aneto at 3040 meters. Many of the climbs we would achieve are well over 1000 meters. It would be hot, getting into the forties, although water was plentiful. Even in the early summer, snow can be found in the higher valleys and peaks. The thing that bothered us the most was that in the Pyrenees, many restaurants didn’t open until 8-9 in the evening and after a long days hard riding you need carbohydrate and you don’t want to have to wait three or four hours to get it. At the end of our recy, we called into a book shop in Pau in France and chanced across a copy of “La Travesia de los Pirineos en BTT” written by the Spaniard, Jordi Laparra and published by www.prames.com

We had previously searched for mountain bike routes in the Pyrenees, but could only find short rides or road routes across the mountains, so it was a real bonus finding this book. It was fate. We were meant to do this. So when we got home full of enthusiasm, we got together with Phil and Krystyna, and the planning started in earnest. This book is in Spanish, but the route directions are very detailed and easy to follow. A series of single sheet "strip" maps show the route and can easily accommodated in a map case on your handlebars.

Preparation

The first thing we investigated was if someone could support us during our traverse of the Pyrenees. A few people made non committal noises and it soon became evident that as the ride was going to take 3 to 4 weeks, few people could actually get time off work. So we started to look at being self sufficient. It would be tough as we would need to carry enough gear in only rear panniers and top bag, plus a small back pack, to last us the whole three weeks. However, the Pyrenees Traverse guide book showed us that it could be done so we finally resolved that we would ride self supported.

The next thing was how to get to the Pyrenees and back. Again getting someone to take us down there seemed impossible. The train was expensive and awkward. We were put off the idea of flying there from the various horror stories of damaged bikes and the logistics of getting back to our start airport.

Finally we opted to use the European Bike Express coach (www.bike-express.co.uk). This was really convenient as there were two routes to take us there and back. The bus departs from Thornton in Cleveland, (only 1.5 hours from home) and then travels south to Dover, across to Calais, Paris and Lyon terminating at Empuriabrava just inside the Spanish border at the Mediterranean end of the Pyrenees. The journey would take 36 hours, but the coach boasted “aircraft style” seats and hostess service and it sounded comfortable. Above all, the bikes are carried in a trailer and would arrive safely. On the return journey we would take the alternative route boarding the bus in Bayonne just inside France at the Atlantic end of the Pyrenees.

A major task before we could plan our route was to translate the Pyrenees guide book into English. Our Spanish language skills amounted to “Ola” and "BTT". I spent a long time scanning each page converting the pages to text and then running the text a paragraph at a time through the Alta Vista Babel Fish on translation tool.

Some of the translations were hilarious (a dry anus actually means a dry year), but it was good enough to make sense of the guide. The book also comes with a set of maps that plot the Pyrenees route and it is very well explained with diagrams of each junction.

Our good friend Debbie at Richardson’s cycles in Scarborough provided a set of spares on a sale or return basis and we stocked up on energy gels, some new cycle clothing and prepared for our departure.

We also raised cash for St. Catherine's hospice in Scarborough. We gained some generous sponsorship from Theakston’s brewery in Masham, Ambrit Ltd and many friends, family and acquaintances. We even had publicity from the local press.

Finally after months of planning, the day arrived for our departure. We waved goodbye to friends and drove the short distance to Thornton where we stayed over night at a friend’s house ready for an early morning start.

Getting There

Saturday and Sunday 4^th & 5^th June

We got up at 4.00am and Steve took Phil and Karen to the bus depot at Thornaby to drop off the bikes and luggage before returning back to the house to leave the car and return in a taxi with Krystyna.

We were impressed with the bus trailer, which carried all the bikes safely.

We departed on time at 5.00am and had a relaxing journey to Dover. A rough channel crossing, but at least it was short. The next 18 hours proved a little less relaxing.

The reclining seats on the coach were not very comfortable and the foot rests were all but useless.

We stopped several times, but only long enough for a quick wee and by the time we arrived at Empuriabrava on the north east end of the Pyrenees on the Spanish Meditteranean coast at 1.00pm we all had swollen ankles and bad backs. Revived by the sunshine and a couple of beers and a good meal we felt invigorated for our Monday departure.

Day 1: Empuriabrava to Llanca

Distance: 35Km; Climb: 700m ; Road: 28km; Track 3km; Footpath: 4km.

Today was set to be an easy first day. Just a few kilometers from Empuriabrava to our official starting point at Llanca a bit further up the coast and the real start of the Pyrenees ride. We brought a map and found that due to a rather large hill between us and Llanca the road journey was too long. Then we spotted a footpath that looked more direct, just over the top of the hill and down the other side. This wasn't even the Pyrenees yet. Just a little hill. We set off full of purpose and within 500 meters we stopped again to mend our first puncture, Steve had a 2 inch nail embedded in his tyre. Was this an omen? 2 patches later we set off again and couldn’t find the right road. After 2 attempts and much swearing we got on the right route, but the footpath proved to be a big mistake, steep, totally unridable, boulder strewn, narrow and overgrown with brambles. The air was blue with expletives and there was a fair amount of ‘disharmony’ between some members of the party as we hauled and even carried our heavily laden cycles up the steep hill. Karen made the top first and arrived at the view point covered in dust and sweat hauling a fully laden bike, to the amazed stares of a couple of German tourists. The view back towards Empuriabrava was stunning, but still we had not really spotted the Pyrenees. From there it was an easy downhill on tarmac to our destination and a well earned meal and rest on the beach. Found a reasonable priced hostel for overnight, but didn’t sleep well due to a lot of noise.

Day 2: Llanca to Darnius

Distance: 46Km; Climb: 725m ; Road: 21km; Track 25km; Footpath: 0km.

We planned an early departure this morning so the hostel owner gave us a key to the garage where the bikes were stowed so we could leave before they got up. Unfortunately we couldn’t get the door open so had to wait till they got up anyway. After yesterday’s problems, Krystyna had decided to send some gear home so spent an hour at the post office arranging for it to be posted. Meanwhile following 2 punctures yesterday Steve and Karen went off in search of more spare inner tubes. The result was that we didn’t manage to set off till nearly 11.00am, (Pyrenees time). It was already hot and we had a head wind. After the first hot dusty hill we were all starting to wonder what we had let ourselves in for and our low confidence was not helped by being passed at speed by a couple of young Italian lads obviously following the same route. At the top of this (small) hill we got our first view of the Pyrenees, complete with snow clad peaks and our spirits lifted a little. At lunchtime we arrived at a restaurant in Cantallops and due to a slight linguistic problem ended up having the ‘menu del dia’ i.e. 3 courses and coffee. This was Pyrenees eating in the extreme. Didn’t get going again till 3.30pm and with sluggish legs to find we had yet another puncture. While we mended this we chatted to a group of German motorcyclists who looked more exhausted than us! The next trial was negotiating the very busy roundabout under the motorway at Janqueira, loads of huge smelly juggernauts, but once past this we left the main roads behind. Getting very tired and with the evening fast approaching we decided to cut the day short and found a signpost to ‘rooms’ at Darnius. We followed the signs and arrived at a little piece of heaven on earth. A beautiful, peaceful, bed and breakfast near to the reservoir, owned by a Frenchman. In the evening we walked to a restaurant overlooking the water and all had a delicious meal, except for Krystyna who regretted her choice of Battifara1, especially the next day. Note 1: Battifara is a type of Catalan Sausage found a lot in this area of the Pyrenees. Quite large; a bit like Cumberland Sausage and prone to blow you up somewhat!

Day 3: Darnius to Olot

Distance: 69Km; Climb: 1000m ; Road: 34km; Track 35km; Footpath: 0km.

The Pyrenees air and a days cycling delivered a really good night's sleep. In the morning we had a delicious breakfast served on the terrace and set off for an easy ride round the shore of the reservoir. Then it was up a dirt track to climb 350 meters to our first real col of the Pyrenees and a fantastic downhill on the other side. Arrived at St Llorenc de la Muga. Did some food shopping and had coffee (any excuse to stop cycling). Karen and Steve set off with the map, but Phil and Krys didn’t! Wasted still more time trying to find each other. Eventually got going again and felt like we were making progress at last. As we cycled up the road to Albanya we hit a traffic jam. The road was closed for resurfacing. After waiting patiently for an hour they let us through onto the boiling hot tarmac. It was so hot we were sure it would melt our tires so we daren’t stop, but the tar was splashing the backs of our legs and burning them. After that trial we started up our next major Pyrenees hill of the day, 750 meters to Col de Riu. We started on "cemento", but the track got rougher and rougher, steeper and steeper. We thought we’d found salvation when we chanced upon a farm with a sign advertising coffee, but it was totally deserted so we had to continue without slating our thirst. As we descended the other side we came across a lone Frenchman on an old bike, heavily loaded with camping kit, trying to pump up his tyres with a useless pump. Phil and Steve showed him how to do ‘zee pumping’ with their English pump. However, they were totally deflated to learn that he had cycled all the way from Perpignon that day, further than we had travelled in 3 days and it was still only 4pm. Yeah right! We descended through a beautiful and typical Pyrenees gorge with an ancient arched bridge, beneath which was a naked lady sunbathing. The boys were "re-inflated" again. Our planned stop for the night was at Castellfollit de la Roca, a town that Karen and Steve had visited the previous September to investigate our accommodation. Unfortunately the first hotel was closed down and the second was fully booked. Our only option was a further 10kms up the road to Olot. We arrived there tired and depressed, searching vainly for a decent hotel. Eventually we found what appeared to be the only one in town and it was definitely on the seedy side. The owner was a very short-sighted, maybe even blind, not too clean looking Spaniard, (one eyed, Spaniards would later become a recurring them throughout the Pyrenees). Kristina was sure the sheets on their bed were used and found a pubic hair on them, "Yuk!" But beggars can’t be choosers and it was only one night. Steve and Karen set off to find a beer. Meanwhile Phil and Krystyna had a problem with the hotel doors and thought they were locked in the hotel so were calling for help from the balcony. For compensation we found an excellent restaurant almost next door with lovely local food. We were really starting to appreciate the beauty and splendour of the Pyrenees, but some of the accommodation left a little to be desired.

Day 4: Olot to Camprodon

Distance: 42Km; Climb: 830m ; Road: 15km; Track 27km; Footpath: 0km.

After a mediocre breakfast we back-tracked to Castellfollit for a much better one. From there we scooted down the hill and set off up tarmac to climb to San Pau de Seguries. We dropped down the other side into the Ter valley and up to our next stop, Camprodon. As this was a short day ride we arrived at 2pm and went to sleep on the grass by the river for a couple of hours. (Pyrenees time). We booked rooms in the Hotel San Roc and they let us put the bikes in their extremely spacious garage across the road. After getting changed, Phil needed to find a bike shop to replace his broken pedal. Simple really, remove pedal with spanner, fit new one, done. Except the pedal was not coming off. The mechanic broke 2 spanners in the process and refused to try again. He sent Phil with his bike down to the garage where they put his precious steed in a vice and produced a massive spanner. While Phil hid his eyes in fear, the offending pedal was removed. Returning the bikes to the hotel garage Steve tried to throw the keys to Phil and broke the fluorescent light tube on the ceiling. "Quelle calamity". We all slept well in clean beds that night.

Day 5: Camprodon to Planoles

Distance: 35Km; Climb: 1100m ; Road: 9km; Track 15km; Footpath: 1km.

All four of us decided today that we could lighten our loads further so another trip to the post office followed with parcels winging their way back to England with love from the Pyrenees. With lighter loads, we set off again. We had two route options today so chose the slightly easier one. Set off up tarmac to La Roca. Karen was having a severe crisis of confidence and Phil and Steve had to take some of her gear to get her up the hill. The track gradually got rougher as we climbed higher and despite our determination three of us ended up pushing, Phil proved he wasn’t a wimp and rode on. Stopped in a little village for lunch, but only had a main course this time. Dropped down to a large town, Ribes de Freser and then had to ride up a very busy road with speeding motorbikes for a few kilometers. Turned off onto a quiet track then and had a quite easy climb before dropping down through pine forest to Planoles. There were no hotels here so we had to find the Pyrenees equivalent of a bed and breakfast. We climbed up the hill into the village and went into a shop where we bumped into a man who spoke fluent English and also had a mobile phone. We intimidated him into making a phone call for us and booking the accommodation. We had to ride back down the hill and along under the railway to find it, but it was nice and very quiet. For our evening meal our hosts suggested we go back to the station at Planoles where there was a sort of cafe. There was no-one else there except a little old man and the kind lady owner who, as she spoke no English,acted out the menu for us. Basically there was lamb, pork or chicken, which were all in the freezer. It was good Pyrenees food and we were all asleep early.

Day 6: Planoles to Baga

Distance: 55Km; Climb: 1700m ; Road: 24km; Track 30km; Footpath: 1km.

We had a long day ahead with a big climb. It was a hot day, but at least the first few miles up to the Collada de Toses was an easy gradient on tarmac. This was at 1800m and we stopped for lunch. We set off again this time on a track that took us along the edge of a beautiful flower filled valley with butterflies and our first sightings of circling vultures. We rounded a bend and there in front of us was the most stunning broad flat meadow full of horses, cattle and goats all wearing neck bells so the air was full of their music. We were all transfixed. We continued up into the mountains passing above the ski resort of La Molina and passing several ski lifts. Another steep rough section followed up to the top of the ski lift at Cap de Costa Risa and then, horrors of horrors ,a descent down a black ski piste, steep, rough and loose. Thank God there was no snow. We then made another joint wrong decision when we spotted a ‘short-cut’ on the map up a footpath, cutting about 7 km off our route. Hadn’t we already learnt our lesson about Pyrenees footpaths? This one began innocently enough with a grassy path through a few pine trees but suddenly we were in a deep melt-water valley strewn with huge boulders and very steep. We could hardly walk it, let alone get our bikes up it. A few cow bells would have helped to drown the expletives as we struggled to the top. Eventually we reached Col de Pal at 2110m, one of the highest climbs we completed during our Pyrenees Traverse. By now it was very cold and the sky was full of black clouds. We were all wearing every piece of clothing we had to ward off the chill. More vultures were up here watching us so we kept moving. At the top we met a goatherd. Just a young man, with his flock of goats. What a lonely job, but what rewarding views I suppose. We continued over the col looking forward to a massive 1400m descent to our next stop. Suddenly the heavens opened and we were in the middle of a full on Pyrenees thunderstorm. At this altitude the lightening was all round us and the cracks of thunder were ear-splitting. We rode down the mountain as fast as we could as the track turned into a river and we were soaked and frozen. Eventually we made it into Baga and found a hotel. When we asked where we could put our bikes they let us put them in the bar! We all soaked in the bath to thaw out then down to the bar ourselves to keep the bikes company and drown our aching limbs with a couple of beers and a Pyrenees Grapa equivilent.

Day 7: Baga to Tuixen

Distance: 37Km; Climb: 1175m ; Road: 20km; Track 17km; Footpath: 0km.

Started the day with a 1000m climb up to Col de la Jaca, mainly on tarmac and with wonderful views. At the top we were getting a bit blasé and not paying enough attention to the route description. We started a descent down a wide mountain track and were enjoying making fast progress with little effort. Steve started to get suspicious as we seemed to be on the wrong side of the mountain. Steve and Karen stopped to check the map and shouted to Phil and Krystyna. Phil came back up, but Krys didn’t hear and continued down. We realised we’d taken the wrong turn at the top so Phil had to set off down the mountain, find Krys and they had to cycle all the way back to the top again. The Pyrenees had fooled us again. Back on the right route we came down the valley to the little hill-top village of Tuxien and stopped for a traditional Pyrenees ice-cream, i.e. a Magnum. We sat down and realised we were really tired already so decided to stay in the youth hostel there. We were the only residents and shared a large dorm, which meant we could have a bit of a lie-in in the morning. The food was amazingly good and the next morning at breakfast we took all the food we couldn’t eat and packed it for our lunch.

Day 8: Tuixen to Noves de Serge

Distance: 35Km; Climb: 700m ; Road: 28km; Track 3km; Footpath: 4km.

Felt quite relaxed today with only 30km to cycle. Our route climbed up round many hairpins to the 1200m col and it was a steep fast descent down to our pre-booked hotel at Noves de Serge. You couldn’t call this place a hamlet. Just a sleazy hotel at the side of a main road and we arrived there at lunchtime. With little else to do Phil and Krystyna went to bed (for a sleep?) Steve and Karen weren’t as tired and set off to try to find somewhere to swim in the river, (really!). After a long hot fruitless search they returned, but just as they were within sight of the hotel they were ambushed by a mad, half grown kitten with an extremely loud Pyrenees meow that was determined to follow no matter how hard we tried to dissuade it, even resorting to gentle kicks. We crossed the main road thinking it would be deterred by the heavy traffic, but he just kept coming. By this time we were running and just made the hotel door in time to shut it with him on the outside. We didn’t see it when we went out later and were suspicious the kitchen staff had cooked up the ‘menu del dia’ with it. Once the other two got up we got a taxi and went into the nearest town to shop for food for the next day.

Day 9: Noves to Llavorsi

Distance: 53Km; Climb: 1250m ; Road: 19km; Track 33km; Footpath: 0km.

Got up early ready for another long and hot Pyrenees day. The hotel didn’t do breakfast so we had a picnic in our room. It was a beautiful ride up into the mountains through pine forests. Steve’s chain broke and Krys had a puncture, but otherwise it was an uneventful day. Dropped down into the valley and watched white water rafters before finishing at the very alpine Pyrenees town of Llavorsi. The hotel that got everyone’s vote for the best of the trip. A delicious evening meal, newly decorated rooms and comfortable beds.

Day 10: Llavorsi to Espui

Distance: 58Km; Climb: 1500m ; Road: 4km; Track 54km; Footpath: 0km.

We knew that today was going to be tough. We would achieve our highest altitude of the whole trip and the first 36 km was all climbing. We set off early, with plenty of food ,and climbed and climbed starting off on tarmac and then onto rougher pistes. We stopped frequently to eat to keep up our stamina. After 6 solid hours of toil we reached Coll de Portella at 2250m and the most stupendous views across a huge mountain bowl with green velvet pastures and the whole of the Pyrenees stretching in front and behind us. Phil and Krys happened upon a huge flock of vultures on the ground, which flew upwards and circled soundlessly above them. Once into the mountain bowl, the track started to drop gradually, at last relieving us of the torture of pedaling uphill. The elation was enormous and we again lost concentration on the most important thing. i.e. following the map. We continued along the track until we reached a ski lift station and stopped short because this was definitely not on our map. We spent ages trying to work out where we were, but we had ridden off our fairly limited strip map and nothing made any sense. Ahead of us was a 600m descent down hairpins to the nearest visible habitation so, exhausted, we decided to go there to get directions. We dropped down quickly and as we reached the village the first person we met was a one-eyed Spanish JCB driver. We asked him in our best Spanish how to get to Espui. He pointed back up the mountain and said it was on the other side. Reaching the village we realised we were in Llassui, only about 10k as the crow flies from our morning starting point. We’d dropped down on the wrong side of the mountain! The Pyrenees had fooled us again!!!! At that point we suddenly knew what we had to do. Find a beer! We found a bar just down the road and downed a large cold one, and then with new found energy Steve was volunteered to ask the barman if he knew of a taxi that could transport the four of us and our bikes to Espui. Amazingly he knew exactly who could help and phoned him. A local outdoor adventure holiday company had an eight seater taxi and a large bike rack. The road journey there was over 60kms round the bottom of the mountain and back up the next valley. We arrived at our hotel to realise it was a dump. The evening meal was the worst yet. A starter of mixed frozen vegetables served in their cooking water. Main course was some sort of fish, previously frozen and served only half cooked. We all took a bite and the realised it was raw so sent it back. They took it back to the kitchen, cooked it a bit more and returned it to us. Shame we were so hungry we just got on and ate it.

Day 11: Espui to Pont de Suert

Distance: 54Km; Climb: 1310m ; Road: 22km; Track 28km; Footpath: 4km.

After an equally disappointing breakfast we set off down the valley initially and found a shop to stock up on food. Grinding up the next hill it was very hot and dry. We were desperate for a cup of coffee, but the hamlets we passed through were too remote for such luxuries. Eventually we spotted red sun shade umbrellas further up the hill and rode with renewed vigour. A large group of men were sitting on a patio drinking beer and with our tongues hanging out we approached thinking it was the local bar. It turned out to be a private party. We asked if they would sell us a few bottles, but they just pointed out a distant hose pipe and said if we were thirsty we could get a drink there. The supposed highlight of the day was a 3km climb up a ‘very technical’ single-track to a hilltop chapel, Ermita del Coll. Of course, this was another Pyrenees footpath so for ‘technical’ read ‘unridable, need to carry your bike. Krys’ already bad day got a little worse. Karen’s got better as Phil helped her to carry her bike. Dropped down a really rough and dusty track on the other side and at the bottom, where there was a small damp patch on the road, we were treated to a puddle of beautiful blue butterflies sipping the moisture from the path. As we approached they rose into the air as one cloud and we were surrounded by them. Breathtaking. The Pyrenees continues to amaze us. At last we found a restaurant and managed to get coffee and a magnum. Arrived at Pont de Suert, a lovely town with a quaint medieval center, a little like York, and found a nice looking hotel, but they were renovating part of it so we would have to put up with the builders who started work at 8.30am each morning. As tomorrow was our one day off we weren’t going to get a lie-in. Had some good Pyrenees tapas near the hotel,l but couldn’t find anywhere nice for our evening meal.

Day 12: A Day Off

Distance: 0Km; Climb: 0m ; Road: 0km; Track 0km; Footpath: 0km.

Today was our day off. Despite the builders we still managed to have a lie-in. We did a mountain of laundry and then Steve realised he had left his waterproof jacket in the wardrobe at the hotel in Espui. Unwilling to cycle all the way back there to pick it up, he decided to book a taxi to go and bring it back for him. The only problem was how to explain this to the taxi driver. In a scene reminiscent of something from Pyrenees version of Fawlty Towers he eventually dispatched the driver and some hours later was reunited with his jacket. We were actually quite bored and couldn’t find the supplies we needed so spent a lot of time eating and drinking (Is this starting to sound like we are alcoholics? We are not - really).

Day 13: Pont de Suert to Senz

Distance: 58Km; Climb: 1300m ; Road: 20km; Track 39km; Footpath: 0km.

We were almost relieved to get going again today. We were now in the Pyrenees region of Aragon. It was already hot as we set off into the hills, at first on tarmac climbing up through small villages through beautiful flower filled meadows very much like the Yorkshire Dales. Again we were obsessed with coffee, but the bar we found was closed till Sunday. Pyrenees time again. Continued on along a muddy track with some deep puddles that the rest of us avoided, but Krys tried to cycle through. Her wheels stuck in the mud and she ended up getting a bit of a bath. To add insult to injury she was then attacked by Pyrenees bees. Managed to find a shop selling Magnums eventually, but then had to start a long hot climb up to the tiny hamlet of Senz where we had booked bed and breakfast in a typical Pyrenees farmhouse. Phil was the only one having a good day today and was well in front all the way. We had a nice apartment with views over the valley and met our next-door guest who we nicknamed Pedro. He was doing the same ride as us, alone and in half the time. The boys sulked all night at the thought of him forging ahead, and for the rest of the trip Pedro was the butt of many jokes.

Day 14: Senz to Escalona

Distance: 31Km; Climb: 690m ; Road: 4.5km; Track 26.5km; Footpath: 0km.

We thought we were starting to get used to the heat, but today was even hotter. Luckily we only had a short ride, but it was a hard steep climb up to the top of Collardo Cullibert and we were pushing again. The Pyrenees geology was noticeably different here, drier, fewer trees and more bare rock. Phil got all excited, but Karen wasn’t impressed. The downhill into Escalona was very rough and loose and we all got BBC (bike braker’s cramp). We arrived at about 1.30pm and checked straight into the only hotel in town so that we could have a cool shower and then down to the cool, cool air conditioned restaurant for lunch. After eating Phil and Krys crept back upstairs to bed to escape the heat, but Karen and Steve went for a walk to the river. That evening we sat on the patio and watched the sun set over the mountains, turning the bare Pyrenees rock to a beautiful rose pink.

Day 15: Escalona to Brotto

Distance: 55Km; Climb: 850m ; Road: 55km; Track 0km; Footpath: 0km.

We decided that to avoid the worst of the heat we should get an early start today. We set off at 7.00am, which meant no breakfast before departure. The first 15km was on road through the canyon of Aniscio. On each side were huge sheer rock walls and the sun couldn’t get to the bottom so we were lovely and cool. The scenery was stunning. Phil and Krystyna were having a rare bad day, due to the lack of breakfast, so for once Steve and Karen were first to the top of the hill. For her reward, Karen got a flash of Frenchman’s bare buttocks as he tried to change into his wet suit to go canyoning. At the top of the hill at Fanlo was the most perfect cafe, complete with red sunshade umbrellas serving coffee and omelettes. Phil and Krys could refuel at last. From there it was downhill all the way, through numerous dairy farms with copious quantities of manure, to Sarvise where we planned to stop for the night. Finding nowhere suitable, we rode on up the rode onto the next town, Brotto. Steve and Phil went off to search for accommodation and found a room with a good looking owner and nearly didn’t come back to their partners waiting for them at the bar. We spent the rest of the day boozing, eating, shopping and sightseeing.

Day 16: Brotto to Larres

Distance: 45Km; Climb: 800m ; Road: 45km; Track 0km; Footpath: 0km.

After the boozing, shopping etc last night we had a ‘team meeting’. Having already cycled about 10kms further up the valley than originally planned, we were now only 40 km by road from our next night stop. The alternative was to go back down the road for 15 km and then ride 54kms over rough steep mountains. Karen and Krystyna won the debate so it was on the road today. We were all starting to suffer from exhaustion of riding every day. To avoid the heat we were once again up at 6.30am. Had a picnic breakfast in our room and then off up a hill again. These were relatively easy gradients on tarmac and not too much traffic. The advantage of being on the road was that there were more cafes for coffee and magnums. The only problem was that as usual we didn’t have a map other than a basic Pyrenees road map so it was easy to go wrong. The road was flat and fast and Phil and Krys were a long way ahead and going in the wrong direction. Steve and Karen pursued them for several miles uphill in the heat. On eventually catching up with them, for the first time on the whole ride Steve "lost his rag" and yelled at Phil, “Phil, do you have the slightest damn idea where the hell we are? “ Phil at this point put on his ‘hurt look’, his left leg started to swing out to the left and his bottom lip quivered. He and Krys looked at each other, turned to Steve and said “sorry mate”. And the tiff was over. We were heading for a town called Sabinanigo and round the next bend in the road we got our first sight of it and what a sight for sore eyes it was. It appeared to be a huge industrial waste land, still under construction with belching factories, vast quarries, JCB’s and lorries and we had to ride through it to town.

Day 17: Larres to Aragues d'o Puerto

Distance: 55Km; Climb: 1350m ; Road: 33km; Track 22km; Footpath: 0km.

We had a late start today due to malfunction of Phil (well the alarm clock actually). We set off, yes, up a hill as usual, through several deserted hamlets ripe for conversion. The route was through lovely woodland with grazing goats and sheep. We got to a refugio at the top with a cafe, but they weren’t serving lunch so we sat outside and ate our packed food. We then dropped down into Castiello de Jaca and decided to rest for the hottest part of the day. We brought a huge melon and found a place in the shade of trees next to the river and swam and slept for a couple of hours. Then we continued into drier country with less trees and masses of low yellow shrubs a bit like gorse. As we dropped down into the next valley we passed through several lovely mountain villages, but found no accommodation. Our last hope was in the next village, Aragues d’o Puerto. It was quite late when we arrived and as we rode up the hill into the village we met a local and asked him where we could stay. He pointed up the road and told us we’d have to go another 10km to the next town. Not willing to do this, we split up and started scouring the town. Our best chance was the youth hostel, but this was closed. We were starting to loose hope, but Phil got lucky and found rooms to let in an old lady’s house on the village square. Despite her lack of English and our appalling Spanish she explained that there was nowhere to get an evening meal in the village, but if we liked she would make sandwiches for us and we could take them next door to the bar to eat because it was owned by her brother. They were the most delicious sandwiches of the whole trip. True Pyrenees bacon and omelette in a bread bun, heaven.

Day 18: Argueas d'Puerto to Isaba

Distance: 56Km; Climb: 1500m ; Road: 33km; Track 22km; Footpath: 0km.

At breakfast the next day, in a scene reminiscent of something from the Bible, the lady with no English, advised the group with no Spanish not to go up the footpath, as in the route book, but instead to take the slightly longer, but infinitely easier route along the road to the next valley. We gladly took her advice. We’d had our fill of carrying our bikes up technical single-track. Before departure, as usual, the boys had to do ‘zee pumping’ which was a mandatory warm-up exercise. Today we would be crossing into the Pyrenees region of Navarra; ETA country. See the graffiti and bullet holes in the signs? The morning saw us travelling through the villages of Echo and Anso, very touristy country. Further up the road we came to a picnic site at the side of the road by a river. We decided to stop for a swim. As we pulled off the road we saw a red and white striped cool bag in the lay-by and were convinced it was an ETA bomb so we gave it a wide berth. As we were swimming a car pulled into the lay by at speed, a man jumped out, grabbed the bag and drove off. It was probably a drug dealer! From there it was a beautiful ride up the Beral valley, another gorge with towering cliffs on each side, up to Zuriza at the very edge of Navarra. We stopped at a cafe at the top for tapas but were disappointed with the ‘megas’, a bowl of stale breadcrumbs fried in olive oil. Even the birds wouldn’t touch them. Just a short ride after this to the summit and the down into Isaba through a lovely valley with flower filled pastures and broad leaved woodland. Part of the ride down the hill went off down a footpath and we lost our way in the dark woods so ended up with a ford through the river and a climb up the bank. Isaba was different to any of the other Pyrenees towns to the east, they even spoke a different language.

Day 19: Isaba to Burguette

Distance: 85Km; Climb: ?m ; Road: 85km; Track 0km; Footpath: 0km.

Another early start today to escape the heat of the middle of the day. On the road by 7.00am. Initially it was cold and we had to put our jumpers on. We completed all the major up-hills of the day on tarmac and were looking forward to the next part of the ride, a long off-road section through the Irati forest. We reached highest point of the day, Collada Ollokia, in good time, but then Steve developed a wobble in his rear wheel. It seemed that his bearings were disintegrating. We realised we daren’t risk the forest in case the bearings failed so had to have an emergency team meeting. Although we were bitterly disappointed at not being able to follow the route, we decided we should all stick together and head off back down the road and try to find somewhere to get a new wheel. We made fairly quick time all the way back down the hill despite the wobbly wheel and found a tourist information office in Izalzu. They suggested we carry on down the road to Jaurietta where we could get a taxi to Pamplona and find a bike shop. We continued as instructed and happened upon a lovely restaurant with an English speaking waitress. While we enjoyed a delicious lunch she booked the taxi for us and arranged our overnight accommodation in Burgette. Then we bade Steve adieus as he set off in the taxi with his bike to go to Pamplona, and Karen, Phil and Krys carried on by road to Burgette. The taxi drivers of the Pyrenees were by this time starting to get to know us quite well. As we cycled into Burgette a taxi stopped in front of us and out hopped Steve, new wheel fixed on his bike, to ride the last kilometre to the hotel. We stayed in Hostal Burgette, famous for having once accommodated Ernest Hemmingway who had a great love for the Pyrenees and Burguette in particular.. In the evening we were entertained by the locals enjoying their ‘festival’ with lots of music, traditional dancing and booze.

Day 20: Burgeutte to Elizondo

Distance: 48Km; Climb: 775m ; Road: 36km; Track 12km; Footpath: 0km.

Today we had a slightly later start as the village shop didn’t open until 9.30 due to the festival. As we left the village we passed crowds of people traveling south, all carrying their scallop shell symbols of the ‘Camino de Santiago’ trail which crosses the Pyrenees on its route to Santiago in the far west of Spain.. Once we reached the top of the hill we were glad we’d started late as we were enveloped in thick mist and it was very cold. We continued on up a steep ‘cemento’ road through the dense beech forest. We were then dropping down through the huge dense beech forest over the border onto the French side of the Pyrenees. We arrived at Banca, at 200m above sea level, the lowest we had been for 20 days. We were again thwarted in our attempts to buy lunch as the local bar was shut in preparation for the evening festival. So we sat across the road on a bench and ate our carried foodin the French Pyrenees. After that there was a big steep climb on the other side of the valley, 8km of road to get back to 800m and back onto the Spanish side of the Pyrenees. From there we descended again to Errartzu, had a quick beer and a magnum and then rode on to Elizondo, a beautiful traditional Navarra town on the banks of a large river. We found rooms in a hostal in the centre and after a long day we were all tired and cranky. The food however was definitely better on this side of the country.

Day 21: Elizondo to Etxalar

Distance: 30Km; Climb: 770m ; Road: 8km; Track 22km; Footpath: 0km.

Left Elizondo and set off on our steepest climb yet, so the sweat was dripping by the top. We rode on through a high mountain meadow full of cattle and Pyrenees ponies. Reached Etxala and stopped in a cafe for a Pyrenees version of sausage, egg and chips. We were served by a waitress who spoke good English and had studied at Leeds Uni so knew North Yorkshire well. Found the hostal in the town was fully booked so we had to ride about 8km further to another hotel, the main attraction being that they had a swimming pool. We arrived to find the pool was closed. We met two English couples there who had done a similar route to ours but on motor bikes.

Day 22: Etxalar to Hondarribia

Distance: 45Km; Climb: 920m ; Road: 15km; Track 28km; Footpath: 2km.

The final day of our traverse and the guide book promised us 3 steep hills before the descent to the coast. It was another very hot day in the high 30's. Coming up a very steep tarmac road to Collado de Lizarreta Krys got heat stroke and we had to stop at a cafe there to let her recover as we piled ice cubes on her head to cool her down. Finally, we caught our first glimpse of the Atlantic and we were injected with new energy. Our Traverse of the Pyrennees was almost at an end. We had lunch at a snack bar right on the top of Venta Yasola where there were a lot of French walkers out for the weekend. Our descent from this point was on single track, rock strewn path through grassland and bracken. Eventually it became to rocky and steep to negotiate and we had to manhandle (or woman handle) our bikes to the bottom. Finally, having negotiated the busy main roads on the way into Hondaribia we arrived tired, but elated at the Atlantic Ocean

The Final Days and Journey Home

The end of the Pyrenees ride allowed us to relax for a couple of days in the Atlantic Sea Port of Hondaribia.

This is a beautiful old world sea town full of Basque charm. The area close to the beach comprises a lovely pedestrianised area with small back streets and white washed houses.

The old town further up the fill, away from the sea is centered around the old castle, which is now run as a Parador.

We sampled a drink there, but that was about all we could afford.

The town is similar to English towns like York with traditional architecture, narrow back streets and intriguing shops and bazars.

After only these two days rest we were ready for home and we took the train Into France, staying overnight at a Formula One accommodation box prior to catching the Bike Express back to the UK.

Our ride along the Pyrenees had certainly been a challenge. The first week being the most difficult as we built up our fitness level. Although the mountains were high and some climbs were over 1500 Meters, the gradients were pretty reasonable around 15 %. As we got nearer to the Atlantic the climbs were not so high, circa 700 Meters, but the gradients were substantially steeper from 20 to 25% and it was much hotter. This probably made for the must testing riding. We had endured extremes of heat and cold, torrential rain, thunder and lightening. Every one of us had reached a lowest point when you felt you couldn't go on, but with support form the group and determination we all came through those times and by the last week, we had gelled together as a team. The ride became more enjoyable and when we finished we felt some what deflated. Everything was a bit of an anticlimax. This feeling would stay with us for several weeks to come as we got back into our hum drum lives and work. We had riden and conquered the Pyrenees. Life would never quite be the same.

If you fancy the Pyrenees Travers, but the thought of doing it totally unsupported fills you with dread Saddle Skedaddle Ltd. are now running a package deal for this trip.

And for more general information on the Pyrenees try www.Pyreneesguide.com

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