Waking up to rain is always depressing,
but at least the gazebo had kept most of it off the tent. Setting
off, we expected the rain would stop once the tide changed but it
just go worse and continued for most of the day.
At 11.30am it even heavier so we
stopped at a cafe to shelter, hoping to get an early lunch. The
waitress at first told us it was too early, but then took pity on the
two drowned rats dripping water across the floor and offered to cook
us some salmon with potato salad. As we finished our meal, two more
cyclist came in, just as wet and depressed. They had cycled from
Ushuaia in the south, heading for Puerto Montt and they both looked
gaunt and completely exhausted!
From here we had to catch a ferry back
to the Chile mainland with the tickets we had previously purchased in
Puerto Montt. The ferry was scheduled to depart at 2am the next
morning, so we arranged to leave our bags at the hotel for the day.
At the ferry office we were told that
it was delayed, but would leave at 5. We assumed he meant 5am so
decided to spent the evening at a local tapas bar which stayed open
until 3am. With nothing much else to do in this town after dark we
got there at 7.30pm. So there was just 5 hours to fill with eating
Making our way to the ferry pier, it
was obvious that there was no ferry due, so it dawned on us that in
fact it wouldn't be departing until 5pm. Luckily there was a small
hotel/bar place across the road with lights still on so we got a room
for the rest of the night. The ferry arrived at 5.45pm. After a
lengthy unloading and even longer loading it was 11pm when we finally
Dancing in the street
Following lunch we continued in the
rain, up a couple of steep climbs and stopped to watch a farmer and
his wife bringing wood up a hill on a wooden sledge, pulled by two
oxen. It was raining so hard it was too wet to get the camera out. We arrived at Quellon, soaking wet and
cold and saw a sign on a lamp-post to 'Ciclo Nomade Cafe'.
The owner saw us arrive and rushed out
to show us where we could put the bikes under cover before ushering
us into a lovely, warm, modern cafe. He then fed us sandwiches, cake,
beer and coffee until we were revived enough to continue into Quellon
and find a hotel, needless to say, there was no way we were going to
Eventually we found the Hostal El Parque which had great warm rooms and space to dry our gear.
Traffic light unicyclist